CHARLENE GROSS
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FASHION ARCHIVES

Charlene is currently on sabbatical for the 2024-2025 academic year.
Follow her progress on multiple projects in the Fashion Archive, Fashion History Classes, as well as other adventures HERE
Fashion Archive focuses on teaching & inquiry based learning supporting both collection development, information, & cultural literacy acquisition. The School of Theatre at Penn State often has vintage costume pieces no longer stage-worthy &/ or more valuable as primary source research garments. Spring 2022, I assumed the role of Director of the School of Theatre Fashion Archives which taps my previous experience working on the College of Wooster's Digital Costume Collection. Check out the in-progress digital site HERE

​Access to the garments have been limited to the School of Theatre or by appointment-only viewings due to space, time, & personnel. I am working with the Center for Virtual/ Material Studies at Penn State to give each of the 3000+ pieces unique accession numbers & metadata, photograph & research the extant garments, turning it into a digital collection using Omeka S. This will make these primary source garments useful to costume & fashion historians regardless of their location. The resource will provide 360 & still photography for exploration of construction techniques, fabric choice, trim & decorative details. A timeline of the project is listed below.  Our first venture together involved FLAX: First Fiber of the Arts (HERE). CVMS & the Archive used a series of linen/ linen-like garments from the Fashion Archive as a beta test. Check it out HERE

UPDATE: All hanging garments (1147 items) have been accessioned, photographed & uploaded to the online site. The information below will be updates Summer 2024 as time allows. 

The slideshow illustrates the progression of this project starting in Spring 2022 through Summer 2022. The immediate goal is to implement a digital inventory with new, unique identification numbers while sorting & documenting the work that went before us. We have completed one room to date (07/01/2022). Each piece is given an accession number, metadata, tagged, entered into a digital catalogue, & then will be photographed for documentation. The team also established a photography setup for reference images in the in-take room, and has begun a beta test on the
online archive HERE

This project was begun with collaboration with the Center for Virtual/Material Studies at Penn State. The Center provided 3 student interns, optical microscopy, & coordinated still & 360 photography with Cody Goddard, multimedia specialist, to be used to pilot the collection using OMEKA S. It is part of the digital exhibition: FLAX: The First Fiber of the Arts & become its own Linen exhibition as well. The work continued in Fall 2022 by an undergraduate student. Megan Neely, through the generous funding of VRA Project Grant. To date all the hanging pieces (1300) in the collection are accessioned and reference photography has begun with approximately 500 pieces captured. 

This interdisciplinary project will provide open access to not just the Penn State community but also costume and fashion historians online anywhere in the world. In Fall 2022, a Faculty Research Grant from the College of Arts & Architecture was awarded to provide continued student work-study support, as well as research travel to multiple fashion collections in the mid-Atlantic & East coast. Watch for new developments. 
Picture
Slideshow of Projects Happing in the Archive
TIMELINE OF PROJECT
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  • ​Spring 2022​​
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  • Summer 2022


 


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  • ​Fall 2022
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  • Spring 2023- Forward
  • Named Director of Fashion Archive

  • 3 interns through Center for Virtual/ Material Studies
  • Create dedicated in-take, cleaning & care, photography of items, research spaces
  • Establish a catalogue standard textile conservation standards
    • New, unique, identification numbers assigned to 1960s-present archive room
    • Each piece is photographed & assigned meta data
    • Use Omeka S in order to create a searchable database
  • Research 20 linen garments for Exhibit FLAX: First Fiber of the Arts
  • Apply for Costume Society of America's College & University Care Grant
​
  • Fashion Archive goes live on exhibitions.psu.edu
  •  Faculty Research Grant, College of Arts & Architecture 
    • Provide continued student work-study support S23, Summer23, F23
    • Funding for Research travel to multiple fashion collections on East coast.
  • Moth Infestation Discovery
    • Leads to on-campus collaboration work with Library Archive Specialities, Food Services, & Art History
    • Professional Textile Conservators' consults, visits, & workshops 
  • Linen exhibit goes live on exhibitions.psu.edu as a spin off of FLAX
  • Student worker from VRA Grant
    • Create an operations manual
    • Continue Accession numbers & photography of remaining items in archive
  • Independent Study Course with 3 students to test methodologies established summer 2022
    • Test procedures in operations manual
    • Assign select garments to students 
      • ​Research garments
      • 60 & still photography of garments
      • Pattern & generate muslin mock up of garments
      • Develop digital patterns in Illustrator & link PDFs to online database in Omeka
    • Clean & repair historical garments
    • Work with PSU Makers & Media Commons on scans of archive item details to be used in reproducing fabrics, 3D prints, & 3D modeling
  • 3 Graduate students from outside of the School of Theatre will assist in Archive on continuing to research & catalogue the collection
  • Apply to additional grants to offset costs for materials to care & maintain the collection
  • Assign accession numbers & photograph accessories 
  • Access pieces that are no longer "hanger worthy" & box
  • Continue to pattern items & attach downloadable PDF of patterns
  • Continue above work
  • Establish a course offered in rotation based on Independent Study
  • Summary report for VRA Grant 
School of Theatre
CURRENT COLLABORATORS: 
Center for Virtual/Material Studies at Penn State
Catherine Adams, Center for Virtual/ Material Studies, College of Art & Architecture, Penn State
Carolyn Lucarelli, Manager of Center for Virtual/ Material Studies, College of Art & Architecture, Penn State
Sarah Rich, Director of Center for Virtual/ Material Studies, Art History, Penn State
Awyn Rileybird, Textile Conservator, Winterthur/ Textile Museum @ George Washington University
William Minter, Senior Book Conservator in Preservation, Conservation & Digitization, Libraries, Penn State, 

GRANTS/ AWARDS
​
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GRANT
Faculty Research Grant
VRA Project Grant 
CSA College & University Care Grant
​NEH Cares Grant
PRIMARY INVESTEGATOR (PI)

​co-PI Lucarelli
​
co-PI Laura Robinson
AMOUNT
$9445
​$3000
$1500
$261,359
​YEAR
​Awarded 2022
Awarded 2022
Awarded May 2022
​Unfunded 2020

PRESS

Stylish Studies
​Penn Stater, The Magazine of the Penn State Alumni Association
Spring 2025
FULL LIST OF AWARDS & GRANTS
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  • Home
  • ABOUT
  • Research & Creative Activity
    • COSTUME DESIGN >
      • SHOW REVIEWS
    • FASHION ARCHIVES
    • PAINTING
    • PUBLICATIONS
    • SABBATICAL 2024-25
    • ADDITIONAL PROJECTS >
      • MASC
      • Textiles, Dyes & Pigments
    • AWARDS GRANTS FELLOWSHIPS
  • Teaching/ Mentoring
    • UNDERGRADUATE COURSES >
      • Stage Makeup
      • Advanced Costume Construction
      • Adv Costume Design
    • GRADUATE COURSES >
      • Graduate Design Studio
      • Watercolor: Grad Design Studio
      • Fabric Painting & Dying
      • Leather Work
    • MENTORING
  • SERVICE
    • University
  • Collaborators